Glacier National Park: Guide to the West Side
Before I even went to Glacier National Park, I knew it was going to be one of my favorite places. I went in July 2020 for two weeks and it did not disappoint. Often referred to as the “Crown of the Continent”, this park has magnificent mountains, stunning turquoise lakes, glacier-carved terrain, and abundant wildlife. It is no wonder why this gem is one of the most visited National Parks in the United States.
However, traveling to Glacier National Park in 2020 provided a unique experience due to COVID-19. All of East Glacier was closed during my visit, including the east side entrances. No worries though - two weeks was barely enough to see just the west side of the park! I’m hoping to visit Glacier National Park again in the future to fully experience East Glacier (keep an eye out for a future trip and post!). In this post, I’ll be sharing information specific to the west side of Glacier National Park, which still offers an abundance of activities and beautiful sights. Keep reading to learn more about Glacier National Park’s west side to help you start planning your trip!
Quick Facts About Glacier National Park
Glacier officially became a National Park in 1910.
There are currently 26 glaciers in the park that are all shrinking in size. Back in 1850, there were around 80 glaciers in the park.
276 species of birds and 71 species of mammals are found in Glacier, including loons, bald eagles, ptarmigans, grizzly bears, bighorn sheep, elk, lynx, mountain goats, wolverines, pikas, and mountain lions.
The Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park is the union of Glacier National Park and Canada’s Waterton Lakes, forming the first International Peace Park in 1932 to commemorate the peace and goodwill that the two countries share.
The lands of Glacier National Park are part of the history and culture of the Kootenai, Salish, Blackfeet, and Pend d'Oreille tribes.
Need to Know
Entrance Fees
Glacier National Park charges entrance fees year-round. For a single private vehicle, the summer fee is $35.00 and the winter fee is $25.00. The park entrance permit is good for 7-days. If you plan on visiting Glacier for more than 7 days a year, there is instead a $70.00 Glacier National Park Annual Pass (specific to this park). You can purchase your Glacier National Park entrance fee at a park entrance station or ahead of time here. But, if you are an avid National Park visitor, I highly recommend purchasing the America the Beautiful Annual National Park Pass instead because it gives you access to all National Parks for a whole year for only $80.00! It can also be purchased at the park entrance or online here. The National Park Service also has a Military Pass, 4th Grade Pass, Senior Pass, Access Pass, and Volunteer Pass (check here to see who qualifies).
Pets
Pets are prohibited from trails, the backcountry, and any non-developed lakeshores in Glacier National Park. You are only allowed to have your pet in developed areas of the park which include: in your car while driving on open roads in the park (closed roads are considered backcountry), picnic areas, front-country campgrounds, parking areas, on the side of roads if you are stopped, and in boats where motorized watercraft are permitted.
If you do bring your pet with you to the park, they must be on a leash 6 feet or less in length, not left tied somewhere unattended, you must pick up and dispose of their waste in proper trash containers, and do not leave them in a vehicle. Please visit Glacier’s pet page to learn more about their pet rules.
Bear Safety
Glacier National Park is located in grizzly bear country. Prior to visiting, please review Glacier’s Bear Safety page. Safety recommendations for hiking in grizzly country include:
Make noise while hiking (singing, calling out, clapping, etc.). This helps bears know you are there and so that you don’t surprise them.
Carry Bear Spray (I always take Counter Assault Bear Spray! Make sure you know how to use it and carry it where you can easily access it.)
Hike in groups if possible.
Properly secure food and garbage (never leave your food, garbage, or any scented items unattended).
Don’t run on trails.
Stay aware of your surroundings at all times!
Going-to-the-Sun Road Ticketed Entry
New in 2021, Glacier National Park implemented ticketed entry via an online reservation system for the Going-to-the-Sun Road corridor between the park's West and St. Mary Entrances from May 28 through September 6, 2021, if entering the park at one of these entrances between 6 am and 5 pm. Read more about the ticketed entry here. Most of the activities I list in this post require traveling through the park via Going-to-the-Sun Road. You’ll want to keep this in mind when planning your trip, although I’m unsure what the system will look like in 2022.
Cell Phone Service
There is extremely limited to no cell phone service in Glacier National Park (basically no service, in my experience). I recommend downloading trail info from AllTrails prior to visiting the park, which AllTrails+ member can do to access maps without service. Additionally, I enjoyed having paper maps of Glacier National Park on my trip, which I found helpful!
Leave No Trace
As always, please remember to Leave No Trace when exploring the outdoors and Glacier National Park to help protect and conserve the environment, which means following the below principles:
Plan Ahead & Prepare
Travel & Camp on Durable Surfaces
Dispose of Waste Properly
Leave What You Find
Minimize Campfire Impacts
Respect Wildlife
Be Considerate of Others
When to Go
In my opinion, July and August are the best months to visit Glacier National Park. We visited in late July 2020 and there was still some snow lingering in the park. This also means that July and August are the busiest times in the park since it is the peak summer season, so plan ahead if you are trying to visit during those months. If you are looking to visit when the park is less crowded, consider visiting in the off-season if you are okay with being prepared for adverse weather conditions and not having access to everything in the park due to the seasonal road and business closures.
How to Get to the Park & Where to Stay
How to get to Glacier National Park:
Glacier National Park is located in northwest Montana near the Canadian border. There are several options for getting to this National Park:
Fly into Glacier Park International Airport (FCA)
Take a Train - Amtrak's Empire Builder train stops in East Glacier, West Glacier, and Whitefish, Montana.
Drive (I love a good road trip!) - We made the 22+ hour drive from Wisconsin. If you live in the Seattle area, it’s about a 9-hour drive or if you live in Denver, it’s about 15 hours.
The West Entrance to the park is just past West Glacier Village, which is not far from the nearby towns of Whitefish and Kalispell. This entrance gives you access to Lake McDonald, Apgar Village, and Going-to-the-Sun Road.
Where to Stay on the West side of Glacier:
Campgrounds near Glacier’s West Side:
There are a lot of camping options near/in Glacier National Park. There are many private campgrounds outside of the park (West Glacier KOA, Glacier Campground, etc.).
If you are looking to stay within the park, you could book a campsite ahead of time at Fish Creek Campground which lies within the park (other campgrounds that lie within the park that aren’t on the west side include Many Glacier and St. Mary). The National Park campgrounds (Fish Creek, Many Glacier, and St. Mary) are reservable on a 6-month rolling basis, so if you want to go next summer, start planning now!
There are also several first come first serve campgrounds in Glacier National Park’s west side, including Bowman Lake, Apgar, Sprague Creek, Quartz Creek, and Logging Creek. For additional information on all of Glacier’s campgrounds (including east side campgrounds), visit Glacier’s camping information page.
Lodges in Glacier National Park’s West Side:
Lake McDonald Lodge (Lake McDonald Area)
Village Inn at Apgar (Lake McDonald Area)
Hotels near Glacier National Park’s West Side:
Staying in a hotel near Glacier National Park is a great way to still be close enough to the park to easily access it if you’re not up for camping! Some nearby towns to stay in include:
What to Bring on a Day Hike
I wrote an entire blog on Day Hiking Essentials: What to Wear and Bring on a Day Hike! Here’s a very brief overview of what I like to bring on day hikes (read the full blog post for more details!):
Gear:
Water and Water Bottle
Food & Snacks
Navigation Tools: AllTrails, Paper Maps, Compass
Sunscreen and Sunglasses
Microspikes (if needed)
Must-Do Easy Activities & Hikes
Glacier National Park’s mountains may look intimidating, but there are plenty of activities to do that don’t require a full day of hiking. Here are a few easier activities in Glacier National Park that I recommend, ranging from scenic drives to short hikes.
Drive Going-to-the-Sun Road
If you only have 1 day in Glacier, driving Going-to-the-Sun Road will give you a great taste of the park. The scenic drive travels 53-miles into the heart of the park, providing views of jaw-dropping scenery and wildlife. The road crosses the Continental Divide at Logan Pass, reaching an elevation of 6,647-feet.
There are lots of pull-outs and overlooks along the road, and many of the popular hikes can be accessed from this corridor. Roll down your windows and enjoy the ride. You won’t want to miss this.
Hike to Hidden Lake Overlook
If you only have time to hike one trail in Glacier National Park, I highly recommend hiking to Hidden Lake Overlook! This trail is under 3 miles roundtrip and is rated as easy/moderate (moderate due to the elevation gain in a short distance), but offers incredible mountain views and potential to see some wildlife! We saw both mountain goats and rams on our hike to Hidden Lake.
Hidden Lake Overlook Trail Details:
Distance: 2.9 miles roundtrip
Route Type: Out-and-Back
Elevation Gain: 567 ft
Difficulty: Easy/Moderate
Trailhead & Parking: Logan Pass Visitor Center, which has a large parking lot, but I recommend still planning to get there early or go in the late afternoon. On our trip in July 2020, the parking lot was full by 8 or 9 am.
Trail Map & Guide: AllTrails
Go for a Swim or Stroll Around Lake McDonald
Entering from the West entrance, Lake McDonald is one of the first views you’ll see entering the park (and it’s definitely one of the iconic views of Glacier). Lake McDonald is a perfect location to take a swim in the refreshing water after a long day of hiking, paddle around the lake (rentals are available in Apgar Village), go for a stroll along the lakeside, or grab some ice cream at one of the nearby concessionary stores.
We spent a lot of time at Lake McDonald, whether it was having breakfast, drinking coffee, or skipping rocks at sunset. It was a great spot to start and end the day.
Hike to Avalanche Lake
This is another popular hike and for a good reason. This is a moderate hike with not too much elevation gain. The trail takes you through a beautiful wooded area to the beautiful and stunningly clear Avalanche Lake. At the beginning of the hike, you start out on the Trail of the Cedars on a boardwalk through a grove of trees and features a strikingly blue river (pictured below). The hike then continues up to Avalanche Lake, which is a great place to stop for a break or eat some lunch.
Avalanche Lake Trail Details:
Distance: 4.5 miles roundtrip
Route Type: Out-and-Back
Elevation Gain: 730 ft
Difficulty: Moderate
Trailhead & Parking: The Avalanche Lake hike starts a the Trail of the Cedars trailhead, just off of Going-to-the-Sun Road. There is parking available at the trailhead, but it is usually pretty full between 9:00 am and 1:00 pm. I recommend either parking early in the morning before 8:00 am or going in the late afternoon/early evening to secure parking at the trailhead parking lot. Alternatively, you can park at the Lake McDonald Lodge area and take the shuttle to the trailhead (For information on Glacier National Park’s shuttle system, visit their shuttle system website here).
Trail Map & Guide: AllTrails
St. Mary and Virginia Falls Trail
If you are a waterfall chaser or looking for an easier hike, this is the hike for you! At just under 3 miles roundtrip, you get to see not just one, but two waterfalls. You first pass St. Mary falls, which drops about 35 feet. When we saw it, the water was also a beautiful turquoise color. You then continue on to Virginia Falls, which drops about 50 feet.
St. Mary Falls Trail Details:
Distance: 2.9 miles roundtrip
Route Type: Out-and-Back
Elevation Gain: 452 ft
Difficulty: Easy
Trailhead & Parking: The easiest way to access the trail is to park at St. Mary Falls Trailhead, but there are several trailheads that can access the area if that parking lot is full or you can take the shuttle to the trailhead if it is running.
Trail Map & Guide: AllTrails
St. Mary Falls
Virginia Falls
Visit Bowman Lake
While Bowman Lake is a little out of the way from the main area of West Glacier, it is definitely worth the drive. It was one of my favorite lakes I saw on my trip. Bowman Lake is located just north of Polebridge and is about a 1.5-hour drive from the Apgar/West Glacier area. The last part of the drive is on Bowman Lake Road, which is a rather narrow, bumpy dirt road. Take the road slowly because you’ll likely have to pull to the side to let other vehicles pass.
There are plenty of activities once you reach Bowman Lake. There is a day-use picnic area, hiking trails, you can go for a swim, go fishing, kayak, etc.! I spent my time just enjoying the view, but I would love to go back and hike near Bowman Lake in the future!
Must-Do Adventurous Hikes
The following hikes are longer and more challenging than the hikes listed above. These hikes are all-day or multi-day activities and are a great way to get a deeper look at Glacier National Park’s beauty.
Grinnell Glacier Overlook via the Highline Trail (starting at Logan Pass)
If you want to get a good look at a glacier from above, I recommend this hike to Grinnell Glacier Overlook. The hike starts along the Highline Trail, which has incredible views of the park. Near the beginning, the trail follows a ledge (pictured below) for about a quarter-mile, which can be a little scary for those afraid of heights. Don’t let this deter you from this trail, though, as the trail is plenty wide and even has a cable for you to hold onto if that makes you more comfortable. I am pretty afraid of heights, but I did just fine on this section of the trail.
Past this section, the trail provides stunning views of the mountains and continues up over a mountain pass. At about 7 miles in, you'll intersect with the Garden Wall Trail, which you will take to get to Grinnell Glacier Overlook. This last section of the trail was the hardest for us because it was super steep. In less than a mile, you ascend over 900 feet. The view from the top is 100% worth it. From the overlook, you look down on the beautiful Grinnell Glacier and a string of glacial lakes.
Grinnell Glacier Overlook via the Highline Trail Trail Details:
Distance: 15.5 miles roundtrip
Route Type: Out-and-Back
Elevation Gain: 2,830 ft
Difficulty: Hard
Trailhead & Parking: This hike begins at the Highline Trailhead, which is located on the north side of Going-to-the-Sun Road just across the street from the Logan Pass parking lot. You can park at the Logan Pass Visitor Center, which has a large parking lot, but I recommend getting there early, especially since this is a longer, full-day hike. On our trip in July 2020, the parking lot was full by 8 or 9 am.
Siyeh Pass Trail
This was our favorite hike in Glacier. On this trail, you pass a river, go through a forest, and then hike through beautiful meadows before you make the climb up some switchbacks to the top of Siyeh Pass. The top of this pass was windy but offered outstanding views. From the top, you can choose to turn around and trace your steps back to the trailhead, or if you want to turn it into a point-to-point trail, continue down the other side of Siyeh Pass and head towards Sunrift Gorge near Saint Mary Lake. You can take the park shuttle to get back to your car from Sunrift Gorge.
The shuttle service was not running when we did this hike in July 2020, so we turned it into a loop hike by going west on the Piegan Pass trail at its connection with the Siyeh Pass Trail just south of Sunrift Gorge. The trail then turns into the Piegan Pass/Continental Divide Trail and eventually loops back to the Siyeh Bend Trailhead and parking lot. I honestly don’t know how many miles this loop turns out to be, so be warned that this is a very long day hike if you do choose to turn it into a loop rather than taking the shuttle back.
Siyeh Pass Trail to Sunrift Gorge Details:
Distance: 9.7 miles
Route Type: Point-to-Point
Elevation Gain: 2,234 ft
Difficulty: Hard
Trailhead & Parking: Park at Siyeh Bend Trailhead, which is on Going-to-the-Sun Road about 2 miles east of Logan Pass. This point-to-point trail ends at Sunrift Gorge, where you can take the shuttle back to Siyeh Bend Trailhead.
Trail Map & Guide: AllTrails
Go on a Backpacking Trip
Glacier is the perfect place for getting into the backcountry and exploring the wilderness areas. There are numerous options in Glacier National Park for overnight or multi-day backpacking trips, though a permit must be obtained to do so.
To get a backcountry permit, you can either get a walk-in permit or an advance reservation. A walk-in permit can be obtained the day before or day of your desired start date at one of the following permitting locations: Apgar Backcountry Permit Center, St. Mary Visitor Center (*this was closed in 2021), Many Glacier Ranger Station, Two Medicine Ranger Station, or Polebridge Ranger Station. Advanced backcountry reservations can be reserved online via Pay.gov beginning March 15, 2022. I recommend visiting Glacier’s backcountry permit reservation page for more information on advance reservations.
We opted for walk-up permits on our trip. We arrived at the Apgar permit center well before it opened to get an early spot in line. By the time the permit center opened, there were well over 30 people in line to get walk-up permits. Expect to spend a decent amount of time getting permits if you opt for walk-up permits. You also will want to be flexible, as you don’t know what will still be available when it is your turn to get permits.
Given COVID-19, a lot of the backpacking trails were closed in 2020, but we were able to backpack the following areas:
Grace Lake via Logging Lake Trail
The Polebridge area is a lot more secluded than West Glacier and there are various options for backpacking trips. The backcountry site at Grace Lake was one of the options still available when we got our walk-up permits. The trail itself isn’t hard elevation-wise, but this is a lengthy trail (just under 26 miles roundtrip!). Hiking out to Grace Lake was very secluded and we only saw a couple of other people on this trail. On this trail, you hike the length of Logging Lake, which also has options for backcountry camping if you’re interested in a shorter hike in this area! One of the best parts of this trail was the abundance of huckleberries when we went (late July 2020). We stopped many, many times to eat the fresh huckleberries, which were absolutely delicious!
Grace Lake via Logging Lake Trail Details:
Distance: 25.6 miles roundtrip
Route Type: Out-and-Back
Elevation Gain: 2,158 ft
Difficulty: Moderate (but long!)
Trailhead & Parking: Park at Logging Lake parking lot and trailhead off of Inside North Fork Road, which is accessed via the Polebridge Entrance for Glacier National Park. It is a bit of a drive from West Glacier, about 1 to 1.5 hours from West Glacier, depending on which road you take.
Otokomi Lake
The hike to Otokomi Lake can also be done as a day hike, but if you get a chance to backpack it, I recommend it. This hike is a hidden gem, and we found it was less busy than other trails. It is all uphill to the lake, but if you’re daring enough you can take a dip in the chilly water after the 5+ mile hike to the lake.
Distance: 10.4 miles roundtrip
Route Type: Out-and-Back
Elevation Gain: 2,303 ft
Difficulty: Hard
Trailhead & Parking: Rising Sun Parking Lot and Trailhead
Best Location to Watch the Sunrise
Lake McDonald
My personal favorite place to watch the sunrise is Lake McDonald. Not only can there be beautiful, colorful reflections, but what’s great about Lake McDonald is that it is easy to access for sunrise. There is no hiking involved and the shoreline is rather large, so it is easy to find a spot by yourself to enjoy the sunrise. Additionally, if you are staying in one of Glacier’s west side campgrounds, it is a super short drive so you don’t have to wake up too early to catch the sunrise in the summer.
Best Location to Watch the Sunset
Big Bend
I love hiking to places for sunrise and sunset, but after a long day of hiking, it is really nice to enjoy the sunset without having to hike multiple miles. For this reason, I recommend Big Bend to watch the sunset. This is a pull-out on Going-to-the-Sun-Road, where you can park and get out of your car to watch the sunset. You don’t have to walk far to see these incredible views. Here, you can watch the last light hit the mountains. This is also apparently a popular spot for wedding photos - we saw at least three different wedding parties taking photos here at the same time when we watched the sunset! Don’t fret, though, there is plenty of space for everyone to enjoy the view.
Park Maps
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